Kaoshung, Taiwan, Jan.22 – 24, 2026
High speed rail, Hamasen area and Dinner of O-lien(Oden)
I arrived at Songshan airport just two hours ago in the morning on Thursday, January 22nd. The airport is located in the Northeast part of Taipei city. This is the airport I arrived when I came to Taipei first time with my dad and younger brother on July 13, 1973, some 50 years ago.My passport shows I stayed Taipei for three days before leaving for Hong Kong on July 15. First forward fifty years, I am now in my 60’s. I’ve been to Taipei many times. All of the the other flights landed at Taoyuang airport, which is located approximately 40km west from downtown Taipei . This is the first time I landed at Songshan since the first visit in 1973. I still remember the JAL’s DC8 I was on board was landing into the airport surrounded by mountains. The passport control was very smooth thanks to Taiwan Arrival Card Online. As soon as I went out of the customs, I exchanged money at the bank, bought a sim card for my phone at Chunghwa telecom counter, both in the same airport building, and an easy pass for Mass Rapid Transport, MRT at the station, which is a few minute walk from the airport. It was just twenty minutes to Taipei station by MRT. I bought a train ticket at the ticket office and walked down to the platform of the high speed train. I found myself in the queue waiting for the train by 13:20. The train 133 left the station at 13:31 for Zuoying with two stops at Banqiao and Taichung. My seat was on the window side of the left. I spent one hour and 34 minutes watching the flowing beautiful scenery of the cities, farmlands and high mountains on my left. I missed a chance to eat Bento boxed meal as I was not able to buy one before the departure. Maybe I would have a chance next time, I hope.
I changed to MRT to get to Hamasen station transferring at Formosa Boulevard station. At the platform of Zuoying station, an old guy on my back talked to me. I turned to him and realized he was a guy waiting with his wife in the queue behind me at Taipei station’s platform. They were on their way to Formosa Boulevard station. He told that he had been to Japan for business many times. It seems he had worked with Nippon Life Insurance. Their son has grown up and they are enjoying their lives. They said they are going to Osaka for pleasure soon. We got off at Formosa Boulevard. He said ” God bless you!”. I made a cross in front of them by force of habit. They looked surprised. ” I am a roman Catholic” I told. ” Miracle! We are, too. ” they replied. We exchange some words and I walked to the Orange Line. I would never forget this encounter.
The hotel “The Harbour” I stayed was located in Hamasen, a small town on the inlet of Kaoshung harbor, the largest seaport in Taiwan. During Japan’s colonial rule, there was a railway to transport passengers and freight called Hamasen or Harbor Line. That name remained as the name of the area even after Japan ended the colonial rule. There is a ferry terminal and ferries are going and coming between Cijin Island, the opposite side of the inlet frequently. The Hotel is on the inlet. There is the former residence of British consular and its office near the hotel. You walk up the hill to the residence for some minutes. It stands on the top of the hill facing ocean in front. The park near the hotel is famous as the place you can see beautiful sunset. You can go to the park from the residence by going down the stairs. The consulate is near the park. The historical building on the hill, harbor, parks, they are similar to my town Yokohama. I really like this place. From the hotel room on harbor side, I was able to see ships coming and going. However, the area was very quite. I was never disturbed with noise during my stay.
There was a small restaurant Shoushan A-Li Oden behind the hotel. The signboard reads O-lien in Chinese characters. I learned it means Oden, Japanese dish of stewed fried fish cakes and vegetables. It was brought to Taiwan from Japan during the Japanese rule. It has changed to suit the tast buds of local people and became one of their food culture now. In front of the restaurant, the owner was servicing to other customer. I was just watching how he is ordering. I finally mustered up the courage and pointed what I want by fingers. I ordered fish meatballs, Daikon raddish, cabbage roll of fish cake, atsuage fried tofu, a fried tofu pouch of boild egg etc. The owner of the restaurant chopped them to a bite size and served them in a plate. There are tables and chairs at the back of the restaurant. I ate them at the table. They all tasted good. It was interesting to me that they eat with condiment tastes like chilly sauce. I would like Japanese hot mustard. I found some Oden restaurants in the streets of Hamasen. I found Oden among various dishes at the breakfast hall of the Holiday inn express Taipei.
The railway line Hama-sen, or Beach line, had been installed on the dock in this area to transport passengers and freight. Kaoshung station, formerly known as Takau was located here before moving to the current location. Now the vast area of the station and warehouses has been turned to a park to exhibit train cars and art works. Some of them are stream locomotives used from Japan’s colonial rule. There is a little museum which was the former train station office. Old warehouses were renovated as a museum, shops, and restaurants. Newly inaugurated Light rail train line is running near the part as if it were encircling it. It was Saturday morning. I saw many people were coming in group to spend warm beautiful Saturday morning.
I walked towards the warehouse area Near the newly built bridge, I got on the LRT and got off at Hamasen, just one stop. I had to return to Taipei. I stopped at Formosa Boulevard station to see the famous large art installation made from individual pieces of colored glass “Dome of Light”. It is the installation of 30 meters in diameter with 4,500 panels which features the story of human life through the themes of Water: The Womb of Life; Earth: Prosperity and Growth; Light: The Creative Spirit; and Fire: Destruction and Rebirth, with a message of love an tolerance and is an excellent commeration to the heroes who helped usher political changes in this country that ensured civil liberties and freedom for all.
I got to Zuoying high speed rail station by 12:00. All the trains bound for Taipei were fully booked. I had to wait until 13:30 for the next available one. I missed a chance to eat Bento boxed meal on the train again. The train stopped Tainan, Chiayi, Yunlin, Changhua, Taichung, Miaoli, Hsinchu, Taoyuan, and Banqiao before arriving Taipei. I could enjoy beautiful view of Taiwan longer. I thought I should come back to see well again.